피팅 중 주름의 개선과정에 대한 설명 일부를 촬영하였습니다.
Ep1.
“Now, in the case of this dart, as we discussed when drafting the pattern, both the bust dart and the waist dart are transferred towards the side seam, making them quite large. The issue is that the upper line of the dart aligns closely with the weft direction of the fabric, so it doesn’t stretch, while the lower line is positioned along the bias, causing it to stretch. Therefore, in the pattern, the lower dart line should actually be shorter than the upper dart line. And when sewing, you need to pull the fabric slightly while stitching.”
“However, generally transferring the waistline dart to the side seam and making it larger at the side can be a bit risky in mass production. This is because the amount of stretch can vary depending on the fabric type and the angle of the dart, so it’s necessary to create a sample first, and the results can also vary depending on the skill of the person sewing. This side seam dart is often used in shirts. In the case of shirts, it’s uncommon to transfer the entire waist dart amount to the side seam dart direction as the waist is shaped. Therefore, the wrinkles formed in this area due to the longer lower dart line should be smoothed out by pushing the lower dart line towards the side seam, creating a smoother and firmer finish. Additionally, for the wrinkles visible along the waistline, transferring part of the excess to the side seam dart and part to the back waist dart to allow for a more generous waistline might improve the overall shape.”
